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A: These are excellent questions and probably by far our most frequently asked questions. Unfortunately, a quick answer cannot be given. There are many variables that contribute to the ranging performance: Weather conditions - rain, dust, and high humidity will limit the ranging capabilities. Lighting conditions - low light gives the best ranging conditions. Target size - the bigger the target, the better chances of ranging to it. Target reflectivity - Brighter targets, such as white, ranges great; black colored objects range poorly. Target surface - The actual material of the target will affect the range performance - a flat, smooth sign is much easier to range than a matty haired animal. Angle of Incidence - The angle at which the laser hits the target also makes a difference - the closer you are to reflecting the laser off the target at a 90 degree angle, the further you can range. Hand steadiness - this factor will obviously vary from person to person. You think you have a steady hand? Try holding a laser pen pointer steady on a wall 30 feet away. You will be surprised at the amount of movement. The laser is the same way. It illuminates a bigger spot than the pen pointer but you are ranging 1000 feet or more. It doesn't take much movement to have the laser on a different target than what you intend. This will become even more of a factor as people upgrade to longer ranging devices.

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A: Certainly, here is an excerpt from one of our publications.
For beginners it is best to put in some practice by viewing terrestrial objects during the day. Initial experience can be gained during this time of the operation and use of your telescope. If your telescope is equipped with a moon filter, be sure to remove it from the ocular, do this before viewing objects and only use the filter(s) for their intended use.

Never mount more than one accessory (except moon filter) with your ocular lens. This shifts your focal length and prevents you from getting a proper focus, (Example: Barlow and Star Diagonal, 2Omm ocular lens.

Let's talk about POWER: It's a natural tendency for all of us to want to magnify the moon, planets and stars as much as possible so as to be able to see it as closely as we can. Wouldn't it be wonderful to see the "canals" on Mars or the ice cap on Jupiter or the Apollo landing sights on the moon?

Yet, the pure and simple physics of light transmission, refraction and magnification through optical lenses make this a very challenging task. As one seeks to increase magnification of an image, more and more of the light is lost or reflected. And as more magnification is achieved, the more interference occurs from ambient or casual light sources, as well as from the atmosphere itself. That is why the more experienced telescope user knows that viewing is generally more enjoyable at lower powers.

That is why we suggest you begin learning about your new telescope by starting at the lower powers. After you gain some skill and practice at low powers, you can carefully move up when viewing conditions are best.

By starting with the lowest powered ocular lens, this allows you to focus in and find objects prior to using the higher powered oculars (5mm, 6mm, 4mm or 2x Barlow) produces a smaller field of view. If the image is fuzzy at higher magnification, drop down to a lower magnification as the atmospheric conditions are not sufficient to support the high magnification at observation time. Remember, the higher the number on the ocular, the lower the power. To figure the power of an ocular lens you divide the number on the ocular into in to the focal length of the telescope. (Example: 700mm/20mm=35x). Avoid touching or jarring the scope while viewing. This results in vibration that causes the image to shimmy or move. Also make sure that all assembly screws are secured as tightly as possible. When viewing at night, allow at least 15 minutes for your eyes to become adapted to the dark. If you wear glasses, remove them when viewing through your scope unless you have an astigmatism.

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A: All are +/- 1 yard with the exception of the Compact 800. It is +/- 2 yards.

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A: Reflectors are not required to use your rangefinder on golf courses. However, they will enhance the effectiveness of your Yardage Pro.

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A: This varies by model. See the product grid to determine battery type for your model. A fresh battery should give you 5,000 distances before replacing. But we recommend you replace the battery once a year whether you feel it needs it or not. We recommend Eveready, Duracell, or similar quality batteries.

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A: Except for the 11-0830 and 11-8321 models, which use one lithium CR-123 type battery, alkaline AAA batteries are recommended, and should last for up to 400 pictures in most of the ImageViews. The 11-0830 and 11-0832 models (with a flip-up1.5” TFT LCD for reviewing photos) will use batteries faster, depending mainly on how heavily the display is used.

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A: If the batteries are removed from the ImageView™, any photos stored in the internal memory will be lost (except models #11-0830 and 11-0832, these have non-volatile “flash” memory). Some ImageView models include a slot for an external (SD) memory card, providing additional, non-battery dependent storage. Be sure to download your photos to a computer before changing batteries. Keep an eye on the battery indicator, so you can plan to download before your batteries get too low.

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A: High (normal) resolution is .35 megapixels (640x480), and low resolution (display will indicate "LQ") is 320x240 megapixels. Use high resolution for best quality, and low resolution only if maximum photo storage capacity is more important. Note: if "LQ" does not show in the camera display, the ImageView™ is set for high resolution.

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A: No, if you already have other photo imaging software on your PC that you prefer (and is capable of accessing standard TWAIN devices-most imaging software is), you may use it instead, as long as the ImageView™ drivers are correctly installed first. The "import" or "load" menus in your software should be able to access the ImageView™ photo files, which are stored as .bmp (standard bitmap) format on the ImageView 11-1025, and standard JPEG (.jpg) files on other models.

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A: As the ImageView™ gets power from the USB connection while downloading photos, it may not work correctly when plugged into a front panel or keyboard USB port on some computers. We recommend using a rear panel USB connection. Avoid using a USB hub, unless the hub has its own AC adapter to supply power to connected devices.

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